During my 18+ years living in Los Angeles I searched unsuccessfully for the delicacy that is the green almond. One of those items only in-the-know locals are hip to, they eluded me each time I’d check the farmers’ markets in April, the wee micro-season in which they’re available. Like the town’s celebrities, I knew they were there–just hard to spot sometimes.
But today Himself and I were in Goodies Mediterranean Market, a great Seattle find, picking up rose water for a recipe I’m developing, when I decided to pop into the fresh produce area for a look around. And there, far, far from the Mediterranean climate of our recently departed Southern California—and the Mediterranean itself—lookie what I found…
Green almonds! They sort of look like tiny, immature peaches, don’t they? That’s because they’re kinfolk, botanically speaking. But you can munch away on these without doing a thing to them. Yup, can you eat them whole, just as they are and enjoy their crisp, delicate tartness. Or you can toss them in a splash of olive oil and a sprinkling of flaked sea salt and make a lovely little snack for yourself. They need nothing else to be delightful. If you’re a peach-fuzz-o-phobe, don’t let the fuzzy exterior put you off. Crunchy is the primary texture you’ll notice. And see the very inside of the almond embryo? It’s cool and jelly like.
The late Chef Judy Rodgers of Zuni Café fame so loved green almonds that she featured them on the cover of her wonderful Zuni Café Cookbook. She liked to carve away the exterior and pull out the delicate centers, those future almonds, to serve with white rose nectarines and prosciutto. Their subtle tang plays well with the delicate sweetness of the nectarines and the salty, porkiness of the prosciutto.
So to all my Southern California pals—and to anyone heading that way in the next few weeks, including my colleagues in town for IACP’s annual conference—keep an eye on the farmers’ markets, especially the one in Santa Monica, and see if you can get your hands on some green almonds. (Come to think of it, the Santa Monica Farmers’ Market is a good place to spot both delicacies and celebrities!) Once they move beyond their cute fuzzy puppy stage, you’ll have to wait until they’ve matured and lost their tough outer layers to enjoy the mature treasure inside. (em, talking about green almonds again, not celebrities!)
And if you’re not in a Mediterranean climate, check around to see if you have a grocery nearby that carries the foodstuffs of that area. Even if you don’t find green almonds, you’ll certainly discover something you’ve never tasted before that’s worth trying–perhaps a whole shopping bag full of somethings that will surprise and delight.
Addendum… After posting this entry I realized I was essentially saying “I couldn’t find these, but you should take your time and look for them.” To carry the celebrity analogy further, going to a Southern California farmers’ market is a feast for the eyes, with those mountains of showy citrus fruits, orderly boxes of jewel-like berries and lush jungles of greenage. Y’know, the celebrities of the farmers’ market. Then there are a few items that don’t announce themselves from the moment you step out of your car. Let’s call them the character actors of the farmers’ market. You have to look for them, but when you find them you think, “Oh THERE you are! I’m so glad to meet you!”
