Of Birthdays & Sushi Bars

Himself wanted sushi for his birthday dinner, so we headed to our fav neighborhood sushi restaurant, Kuru Kuru (which charmingly can mean, among other things, “crazy crazy” in Japanese).

"birthday sushi"

We sat at the bar next to a good-sized party of birthday revelers that stretched almost the entire length of the bar and around its side. Himself ended up seated next to the Other Birthday Boy (OBB). The two of them shared bites of sushi and sips of sake and talked about their shared birthday (too close to Christmas, etc.), both sitting more or less under the same black helium-filled mylar balloon that bore some sentiment about being over the hill.

We started with what OBB was having. Chef whipped it up for him on the spot (I love it when they do that!) and called it “birthday sushi.” It was excellent, a melange of tiny cubes of salmon, halibut and tuna, mixed with a couple of types of julienned seaweed and tossed with a sweet-sour-salty dressing. This roll is going to need a proper name, because it’s certain to become a standard on the menu. Excellent stuff!

Himself and OBB oohed and aahed over the lavish serving of uni that OBB’s party ordered. We later discovered when we tried to order some that every time this group comes in, they order ALL the uni in the house, so there was no uni for us this night. We asked Chef to bring us something he knew we’d like, and he did, some fine red snapper sashimi that had just arrived from Japan. It was rich, yet delicate in texture and taste.

Fresh-off-the-plane red snapper, the best I've ever had.

After much hand shaking, well wishing and backslapping, OBB’s party cleared out, and a pair of guys came in from a couple of doors down and took their place next to us. The one seated by Himself was a serious aficionado of the outrageously hot. He ordered and quickly consumed things that made our eyes water even more than his did, and we were mere spectators in his blitz of pepper-laden raw fish.

Tuna with heat, heat and more heat.

Chef mixed a bowl of minced tuna sashimi with a generous squirt of sriracha sauce and fashioned a handroll with rice, the tuna mixture, fresh serrano and jalapeno peppers and cucumber. While Himself and I typically dissolve a small dollop of wasabi in a dish of soy sauce for dipping, this guy prepared a paste made of a lot of wasabi in just a touch of soy sauce. He dredged that fiery roll through the paste and ate it in just two rapid, tonsil-incinerating bites. The chefs flinched. Then he ordered another and ate it in the same manner. The chefs flinched again! But he never stopped smiling, even when his face turned beet red and the sweat began to pour. It was quite extraordinary thing to witness.

Chef offered Himself a sample of the hot tuna mixture. He said, sure, why not?! He handled it in good stead, and the chefs were impressed that he ate it and enjoyed it. He said the flavor came on the front of the bite and the heat, at the finish. While it was incredibly hot, it wasn’t so much as to obliterate the flavors. In fact, he said he might try it again sometime.

Tempura-fried ice cream

At the end of the meal, a special birthday dessert arrived courtesy of the house, tempura-fried green tea ice cream. It was just enough for the two of us and the perfect finish to a festive evening of unplanned socializing.

With the bill paid and our farewells said, we strolled back to the car and agreed–as we do every time we go there–that we love the impromptu party that always seems to happen when we visit. That’s the great thing about sitting at the bar when you go out for sushi. You end up chatting with people you’ve never met and sometimes sharing food with them as well. Tables segregate. But the bar brings people together.

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Beyond 52 Cuisines: #54 Belizean

It’s funny how often it takes someone from out of town to clue you in on what’s going on in your own backyard. My friend and culinary compadre Katy Budge of Casa Festiva recently e-mailed me about a new Belizean restaurant just opening in Los Angeles. In spite of my regular trolling for different international cuisines, I had no clue it was here. So I popped into Flavors of Belize, on La Brea in the Midcity area. Open just a month, this new place offers food with a Mayan, Mestizo and Caribbean flare.

Belize sits on the western edge of the Caribbean, just south of Mexico’s foot and nestled in beside Guatemala and Honduras. Until the Europeans arrived, it was populated by the Mayans, whose culture remains a strong influence on the country’s cuisine.

My corn-heavy appetizers were pure Mayan. I began with a plate of panades and garnaches, all of which are anchored by puffy corn tortillas. As wonderfully delicate and rich as they are, I’m sure they’re fried in lard. The two garnaches in the top of the photo are like open-faced sandwiches, one with a spicy cabbage salad and the other with a schmeer of refried beans and topped with a really good aged Dutch cheese. The bottom two are panades, essentially meat pies, filled with chopped and lightly seasoned chicken and conch. The small dish to the side is filled with finely minced onion, garnished with a slice of habanero pepper, a feature of most every meal. While everything is well seasoned, it’s up to the diner to decide how much onion or habanero to add.

With a thought for requesting several to-go boxes, I asked for a second appetizer, a ducunu. The word translates to “boiled cornbread,” but this is an unfair and not entirely appetizing assessment. Young corn is cut from the cob, ground, seasoned and steamed in a plantain leaf, to make a delicate and sweet cake. Sounds just like tamale production, but this corn is quite different from masa, which is essentially a dough made of cornmeal. A ducunu can be stuffed with meat or some other filling, just like a tamale, but I decided to go for a plain one so I could focus on the corn itself. It was really good with a touch of the bright orange habanero sauce (in the background). The sauce was a nice surprise. Remembering my friend Ted’s unfortunate tangle with a habanero, I approached the sauce with trepidation. While plenty hot, it wasn’t as punishing as I’d expected, and it had a lot of good clean flavor that balanced the sweetness of the corn.

Red beans and rice are the base of many Belizean meals, and these are some of the best I’ve ever had. They would have made a good meal all by themselves, but I ordered mine topped with chunks of oxtail meat, the juice of which soaked into the rice and gave it extra flavor. Oxtail is notoriously fatty, but it was worth the effort to separate out the bits of fat, because the meat was seriously good stuff, and tender, having been cooked with all that fat. The plantains (tasty and not greasy–yeah!) and potato salad rounded out the meal quite nicely. At first the potato salad struck me as an odd side, but then I realized that since this is the hemisphere that gave us the potato, it really wasn’t out of place at all. (Extra to-go box, please!)

I was curious about the freshly-squeezed fruit juices, so my server kindly brought me a couple of samples, so I could make an informed decision. Craboo juice (left) and soursop juice (right) are made from fruits we don’t see in North America. The pale orange craboo juice comes from a berry that is rather cherry-like, and you can see a lot of the larger bits in the bottom of the glass. It is lightly sweet with a peculiarly dry edge to it. (The wood is used in smoking meats.) Like the craboo juice, the unfortunately named soursop juice is lightly sweet, but it has a vague tropical-fruit flavor to it. The fruit itself looks a bit like cheremoya, to which it is related.

While I was disappointed that there was no pigtail on the menu the day I visited, I discovered that this is a feature of Belizean menus. You can get the Kriol staple beans and rice anytime, but what you can get on top of them will vary with the day of the week. That certainly simplifies things in the kitchen. And if you have a special hankering, you know to visit on a particular day. The menu features dishes that reflect the food traditions of other groups that make up the Belizean peoplescape, including a strong contingent from Africa (I’m eager to try the cassava- and plantain-based boil up). I plan to return and work my way through the menu and piece together more of the food traditions that came together so creatively and deliciously in Central America. As the saying goes, it’s all good.

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These Thing Do Take Time…

…and a heck of a lot of patience.

The blog transfer has gone fairly smoothly, but now comes the task of transferring all the content from my old website over and integrating it into this nifty new package. It has not gone without some wailing, gnashing of teeth and generally wondering just what I was thinking. Still, I know it will be worth it once the job is done.

Many things are in limbo at the moment, including some of my published works and my public speaking engagements. When I got started on this transfer, my old website completely went bye-bye, which made me feel oddly orphaned in the webosphere. Nonexistent might be a more accurate word, because all of my published work vanished. I’d backed it up on my computer, so it was still available to me–just not to the rest of the world.

Slowly I am restoring it all at this new place. It’s a little like moving and not knowing where my toothbrush is. Or my favorite coffee mug. Or my sanity. I’ll find it all eventually. I’ll get my bearings. In the meantime, cross your fingers, light a candle and say a prayer. I hope nothing fell off the back of the truck during the move.

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Seemed Like a Good Idea at the Time…

…and I’m sure it will be once I’ve figured everything out. I’m in the midst of transitioning from my old web log publishing tool to a new one, and since I’m not the most tech-savvy of individuals, it will probably be a little while before everything is back to normal on my blog. So please don’t give up on me. I’m here–just trying to get my bearings.

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In Defense of the Bacon-in-the-Chocolate Trend

I’m seeing a backlash these days against the bacon-in-the-chocolate trend, but I think maybe it’s more of a backlash against food fads in general. Most fads are annoying and entirely disposable. They barely make a blip on the radar screen of Time. But trends that are worth their salt stand the test of time and transcend their trend status. That’s how classics are born.

Will bacon-in-the-chocolate stick around to become a classic? Who knows? Quiche is so 70s, pasta salad so 80s, stacked anything so 90s and bacon-in-the-chocolate so aught-years. But we still eat quiche and pasta salad. They’re not such relics that we’ll never eat them again, not that I’d call either of them classics.

But consider that anyone who has ever eaten pork in mole sauce in a Oaxacan restaurant has already discovered that pork and chocolate are natural friends. Like chicken—but with more flavor and better texture—pork truly shines in sweet applications, which is why you find it nestled under a layer of pineapple slices in Hawaii, topped with sweet and sour sauce in China and slathered with sweet or perhaps sweet-salty-hot-sour sauces most everywhere else.

But don’t eat bacon and chocolate together because it’s The In Thing. Eat it because you like it. And if you don’t like it, find something you do like, and eat that instead. Maybe you’ll start a trend.

I’ll continue eating bacon with chocolate and pork with mole. And I’ll carry on with my experiments to see what other concoctions I can devise to delight my taste buds. If the trends catch up with me, so be it.

Bacon Walnut Maple Fudge

This is not fudge in its strictest sense, but a liberation from the candy thermometer, one that yields tiny cubes of heaven in just a few easy steps.

First, a word about bacon: A good smoked bacon is what you want to use. Applewood smoked works well and is often the only smoky bacon you can find outside the South. (Watch out for “smoke-flavored bacon.” That stuff is nasty.) Most regular grocery store bacon is unworthy of the poor hogs who gave their lives for its production. Use the best tasting bacon you can find for the best tasting fudge you can produce. If you don’t live in the South, consider investing in a membership in one of the bacon of the month clubs.

16 oz. semi-sweet chocolate (or bittersweet or some combination of different chocolates—whatever makes you happy)
14 oz. sweetened, condensed milk (do not use fat-free—the consistency will be off)
2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
1 Tbsp. maple extract or maple flavoring (maple syrup won’t work)
1 c. walnuts, lightly toasted & coarsely chopped
6 slices of smoked bacon, cut into ¼-inch lardons, cooked well, drained & cooled
coarse sea salt, to taste

Lightly coat an 8- or 9-inch square pan or baking dish with non-stick spray and line with baking parchment or waxed paper.

Heat milk and chocolate in bain marie (or double boiler) over medium heat and stir to blend. Add extracts and stir to completely incorporate. Then stir in nuts and bacon.

Pour mixture into prepared pan and smooth to even thickness with a spatula. Sprinkle lightly with sea salt.

Let cool for a few minutes and then refrigerate, uncovered, until fudge is set, about 2 hours. Cut into desired size pieces. Store any remaining fudge uncovered, as sealing it causes moisture to melt the salt.

Enjoy a piece with a big ol’ glass of milk. Or if you’re just too sophisticated for that, ruby port will do nicely.

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